With the soil being so saturated, it could cause your trees to uproot. When there is a break in the weather, you might want to check the trees on your property and if you have any concerns, please call us at (250)-748-4489.
This video shows a tree falling without warning on a highway in Washington State.
This article from Federated Insurance has some good tips about fireproofing your property in light of the wild fires we are seeing in BC this year.
They suggest that you inspect the land surrounding your property and remove highly flammable vegetation such as pine and fir trees, and keep lawns green and mowed. Move landscaping plants and vines away from the sides of your property.
They recommend the creation of a “safe zone” around your home. Make sure your roof is free from debris and clean your gutters often. Read the full article here.
Trees go through a process similar to hibernation called dormancy, and that is what keeps them alive during the winter. Dormancy is like hibernation because metabolism, energy consumption and growth within the plant slow down.
This is an interesting little video that explains how your trees survive the cold we are presently experiencing.
Be sure to rake up all the fallen leaves and put them into the compost. If the leaves are left, they can encourage fungal growth, other diseases and insects.
October is also a good time to get deciduous hedges and those big trees pruned before the winter gales.
A tree may need pruning for a variety of reasons:
· to remove diseased or storm-damaged branches
· to thin the crown to permit new growth and better air circulation
· to reduce the height of a tree
· to remove obstructing lower branches
· to shape a tree for design purposes
Dormant spraying your fruit trees for pests is best done starting in November up until March if the weather stays cool.
Spraying fruit trees during the cool seasons, November through March, can help control pests that take up residence in the cracks and crevices, according to Ross Penhallegon, horticulturist with the Oregon State University Extension Service. Such dormant spraying is more effective than waiting until the weather warms and pests become active.
Some sprays that can be used are:
Apples: Spray copper before fall rains; dormant oil once or twice from January through March; lime-sulfur in January or February (just before buds open) and wettable sulfur just after petal fall.
Apricots: Spray copper before the fall rains and dormant oil in February.
Cherries: Use wettable sulfur or lime-sulfur applied weekly during blooming for brown rot. Information on synthetic sprays to control cherry fruit fly is available at your local county office of the OSU Extension Service.
Pears: Spray copper before the fall rains; spray lime-sulfur two to three times beginning in fall, again during winter, and finally in March just before buds open; spray dormant oil in early spring before buds open and wettable sulfur just after petal fall.
Peaches: Spray copper or a good dormant fungicide three to four times between December and bud break. Spray copper or lime-sulfur before fall rains and in spring just before bud break; apply sulfur weekly during blooming and again after all petals have fallen.
For the full list and further information, click here.
Trees need deep root watering. So during water restrictions, when you are allowed, give them a good long drink. And then mulch, mulch, mulch, to slow evaporation and keep the ground cool.
Minimize or stop pruning or trimming to avoid scorching your shrubs.
For best results, avoid planting until the fall. Local nurseries will often agree to keep your trees or shrubs until fall if you pay for them now when you have more of a choice.
Here is a good video we found explaining about winter pruning of fruit trees, what to prune and what not to prune.
Climbing up into fruit trees in the cold can be a risky business. Give us a call at (250)-748-4489.
Pruning too soon can harm your trees and shrubs.So, when it comes to fall pruning, procrastination is the way to go.
Pruning a little branch or two may be OK, bigger tasks like thinning the crown or cutting a big limb should wait unless the tree is a hazard. If it is a hazard, you should likely call the professionals in any case.
Well, yes and no. It depends.
Are you purchasing a tree that is in a pot, or a tree whose roots are balled and burlapped?
If the tree is pot bound, wait until it drops its leaves in the fall, then fix the roots as described here.
If not pot-bound, container plants can be planted now. But if your plant is pot-bound and requires a lot of root system correction, it could suffer at least as badly as a freshly dug ball and burlapped tree.
It’s more about when they were dug than when they are planted. Trees can survive in the ground just as well (and probably much better) than just sitting around the nursery. The timing must be based on the condition of the tree more than the actual time of year.
Generally speaking, planting at a better time (between fall and early spring), would provide a less stressful situation for a tree. If you do plant now, choose a healthy non-pot-bound specimen and be sure to water and mulch properly.
Young trees, whether planted by you or by your municipality need lots of help to get established.
The City of Vancouver is asking residents to please help by watering new trees a couple of times a week. We should all be doing the same.
The whole of the CVRD is now under Stage 2 Watering restrictions, but these do not apply to trees and shrubs. For everything else, it is twice a week between the hours of 6 am – 9 am and 7 pm to 10 pm. While the above link is to the CVRD information, it is true for Duncan, Ladysmith, Lake Cowichan and North Cowichan as well.